Our blog which is now focusing on our travels in Europe during the Winters and working across the UK in the Summers.
It also has all our adventures from travelling India and South East Asia in 2018, the Philippines in 2020 and Sri Lanka in 2021/22
To get to Ipoh we had decided to do the 3hr bus journey. My
sickness bands seemed to have worked quite well so far on other transport, and
when you book online you can choose your seat allocation, so we got the front
seats with a view to the front.
Ipoh isn’t a huge fancy town but we had heard good things
about it and it was on the way to the Cameron Highlands, so we decided to stop
for a few nights.
We were staying at the Ritz Garden hotel, which is a bit
rough round the edges but was quite cheap and included a breakfast. It also had
the most enthusiastic doorman ever, that dragged me off to show me maps and
point out the directions you need to walk in for any of the sights. The hotel
does boast of a pool, 3 bars, a library, a cinema and a gym but most of these
rooms were locked and empty when we went for an explore, so not sure if they
are really used facilities.
After a settle in we headed out to figure out the town
and to grab some food. The town is quite run down in places and there are a lot
of closed or empty shops dotted about but we found the night market setting up (it’s
on every night 7pm-2am) and then spotted a hipster-ish looking bar that we
stopped in for a drink. The food and drink scene for young Malaysians seems to
look much like any English town with mid-range bars offering burgers, fries and
other American / western dishes. The big difference is it’s tricky and much more
expensive to buy one or two beers. Everything is geared towards buying buckets
of 5 or more ½ pint mugs or bottles. Obviously, we had a bucket of 5 mugs! We
then wandered back along the road as storm clouds and lightening flashed around
us and I spotted a smaller less fancy looking bar called Vampire. This turned
out to be the other type of nightlife that Ipoh offered – Karaoke. Dominated by
Chinese songs and happy drunk Chinese clientele, we spent a merry hour or so in
here whilst the rain lashed down outside before heading out into the warm rain
for a stroll home. We passed the soaked night market and did stop for some rice
and chicken at a huge street vender but the rain got the better of us in the
end and we headed back to the hotel.
The next day we went on the Ipoh Heritage Trail. We
didn’t actually know it existed but we knew the architecture in Ipoh was an
attraction and so headed for the train station as this was a good example. That’s
where we found the start of the trail which took us across town to the Town
Hall, Law Courts, the Clocktower and various other large colonial buildings
that remain intact. The trail ends in the little streets called Concubine Lane,
which used to be where the prostitute and opium dens were. Unsurprisingly this
is now full of quirky coffee shops, street art and bistros and we stopped for
some yummy fruit smoothies.
We then walked back through a lane called Mural art lane,
which has some amazing examples of graffiti and street art.
After getting back to the hotel I was informed that I
didn’t have long to relax as we were heading out again shortly……oh and I’d best
pack my swimsuit and an overnight bag!
Paul stayed tight-lipped about exactly where we were
going and the only guidelines I had were it involved swimming and a night away.
A short grab taxi journey later and we arrived at the
Lost World of Tambun, which is an adventure theme / water park set in the
shadow of stunning forest covered mountains. Paul had amazingly booked 1 nights
hotel with entry to the night hot springs plus entry to the water park and
surrounding attractions the next day as a birthday surprise!
It was such a nice surprise and a complete break from the
norm of our traveling. The hotel was plush and we had a huge room that faced
the mountains and the water park - but it had been well designed so all you saw
was trees and the entrance building.
I won’t bore you with all the details of the park as it
is just a huge theme type park with animals and fair rides, fake beach, mega
hot jacuzzi, food stalls and water slides but it is a very well done one. They
have spent a lot of money making it tie in with the surrounding jungle, adding
in little details to make the fantasy land come to life. I’m not a big fan of
captive animals, especially at a family aimed theme park and I was expecting
the worst when I walked round their ‘petting zoo’ but I wasn’t too bad. Most of
the animals looked well looked after and their enclosures were adequate. Their
3 tigers looked bored and unhappy but overall their smaller animals and
reptiles were in good condition and it looked like they had put the animals
The luminous forest only opens at night as it’s forest
walkway all set up with fairy lights and UV painted flowers. It was just like
being at a festival and very pretty.
The highlight of the night was the fire show, which was
the best one I have ever seen. We’re only talking about 5 people doing fire or laser
poi and one fire-eater but they must have broken every health and safety
recommendation you can think of. The fire-eater guy was phenomenal, and would
hold an insane amount of fuel in his mouth whilst others did their bits before
he would light up the stage in fire balls. At the end we were lucky enough to
be sat next to some staff so were invited to jump the queue for cheesy staged
pictures with all the whole group. They even gave us a huge pack of cookies to
take away with us for some reason and it felt like a very surreal ending to an
The next day was spent in the water park doing all the
swimming, water slides, jacuzzi and rides again. A special mention for the
‘ghost walkthrough’ which was a set of dark rooms, barely lit enough for you to
see your way around. It had UV and glow in the dark creepy hanging items and
strange objects to either side of you, some of which might be people dressed up
that would touch you as you went by or silently turn to follow you around the
rooms. This is all accompanied with the sound of screaming or cackles of
laughter. I can’t believe there were kids in there, it was very freaky.
When late afternoon came around we left the park and
headed back to our other hotel. After another brief but torrential rain storm,
this one came with horizontal forked lightening, we headed back to the same bar
we’d found on the first night. I know that’s a little bit sad but there aren’t
many places to have a birthday alcoholic drink and as soon as I saw that they
did a Pork Platter, I’m afraid all other plans went out the window and we
stayed there. After an amazing dinner we
walked back and decided to stop at one of the ‘fun pubs’ that we had opposite
We’d heard rumour that there was a brothel near the hotel
but hadn’t seen one, although we kind of suspected that it might have been one
of these pubs. We went into one called the SKS bar as it looked very busy. It
was exactly like something out of the local shop at Royston Vasey as everyone
stared at us as we picked our way through the red lit room towards a dark bar.
Chit chat did resume as we got 2 bottles of tiger for some ridiculous price and
we then watched an amusing scene of very drunk men being served over priced
drinks by very friendly girls. I’m still not sure if there was a brothel
attached but the large manager certainly had a lot of attentive bar girls
working there. We only stayed for the 1 drink, then left everyone to it.
All in all, it had been an amazing and different birthday
in Ipoh Malaysia.
Next day we were heading to the Cameron Highlands. This area was developed in the British
colonial period for tea plantations and farm land and it remains the place
where 60% of Malaysia vegetables are grown. Nestled about 1600 metres above sea
level the temperature up there is a far more pleasant 23-25 degree and the
views are stunning.
Our bus was about 20mins late leaving Ipoh, and when it
came in from Georgetown we discovered that people had sat where they wanted and
so someone had nabbed the front seats that we’d booked. The lady did move as
soon as we said we’d booked these specific seats, although I slept the entire
journey up so probably didn’t need to be at the front anyway.
We’d booked the
Snooze hotel in Brinchang, which was 1 town back from the bus drop off depot,
it’s only an hr walk but with backpacks on we decided to get a taxi. The
traffic in the 3 towns of the Cameron Highlands is awful at the weekend due to
a street market up near Brinchang that has no available parking so cars, buses
and transport goods must navigate abandoned parked cars, wandering people and
oncoming traffic. Our taxi driver told us this was only going to get worse as
the local government had decided to use the land that was going to a be a carpark
into yet more stalls and shop space. He was a born and bred Highlander and
hated seeing his home and people being ignored, as well as turning his 10min car
journeys into a 2hr ones at the weekend. He was a lovely chatty guy and he gave
us his number so we could book any tours with him directly.
Snooze hotel 1 was a compact warren of rooms spread over
3 floors. Each floor had a communal kitchen area with hot and cold filtered
water, a TV, couch and book cases. As we’d booked their last available room we
were in the family room on the top floor.
We went for a walk around the town, which only took about
15mins, then went for Chinese at a place the taxi driver had recommended.
We already knew that if you aren’t trekking in the
forests there wasn’t a lot to do in CH but the draw of lower temps and
beautiful views before hitting chaotic Kuala Lumpur was very appealing. One of
the things we wanted to do was go up to the Mossy Forest and as our taxi driver
had said an early start for this was essential, we gave him a ring to book that
for the following day. He wasn’t available but said his friend with a 4x4 who
could take us around for the day, pick up was at 8:30.
I know 8:30 isn’t strictly that early, but we have become
rather lazy with our morning routine of late and getting up was harder than we
liked. We had a quick breakfast of Dim Sum, which was delicious and then met
Raju our driver.
The Mossy Forest is basically a walk through the forest
on the slopes of mount Gunung Brinchang. A portion of it has got wooden
walkways and platforms that enable you to see the rich trees, carnivorous
pitcher plants, moss and lichen that grow there. If you are lucky the clouds
will part for amazing views, but generally it’s covered in a fine mist that
makes it dark, damp and seem like a fantasy world. I loved it.
Not that we would have attempted it but it seems a lot of
the hiking trails have been closed recently, the one leading off from the
wooden platforms was closed due to a landslide – there was nothing to stop you walking
on, but probably ill-advised to do so.
After the mossy forest we stopped at the BOH tea
plantation. We’d had to drive through it to get to the mossy forest so already
had pictures of the undulating green carpet of tea trees, but now we stopped at
the main buildings. Raju took us through the factory and explained about the
drying and sorting process before leaving us to explore more and get ourselves
a cup of tea. It was actually quite interesting and the tea and cheesecake were
excellent, but it’s the views that were the best bit.
On the way back to our town we stopped at a Butterfly
Garden, which sadly just seemed to be a way to squeeze some more ringgit out of
tourists. The butterfly bit was a little upsetting as the ground was littered
with dying or dead butterflies. I will admit there were a lot of live ones
flying around as well but after I’d picked up a couple that literally dropped
out of the sky it was hard to enjoy them. They also had a few glass containers
with various beetles in them and I had to find a worker to warn them that 2
were on their backs, unable to right themselves. We didn’t hang around long and
after leaving we got dropped off at our hotel.
The next few days passed lazily with a trip to one of the
Strawberry farms, where we sampled their hydroponically grown strawberries –
not as nice as English ground grown ones. We wandered around town, did washing
etc, walked to the next town and ate amazing Bangladeshi food at Singh Chapati
and found a traveller’s pub for some beer. On our last night we decided to try
to what every restaurant seems to be advertising – a Charcoal Steamboat. This
is a Chinese dish I believe and is basically a hotpot of stock that you have over a charcoal fire in the centre of your table and you cook
your own meat, fish, eggs and veg. After a while you fish items out and eat them then add some more in to cook - repeat until you are full. We had no clue what some of the things were that we were adding to our boiling stock and the owner didn't seem to know either but the more we added, the tastier the stock got. It was delicious, filling and quite cheap.
I enjoyed the Cameron Highlands, not just for the
cool temperatures but for scenery, people and relaxed feel. The hustle and
bustle of KL was calling though, and I was really looking forward to what we
were going to find there.
Yet another short monthly update, it's now 5 months (22 weeks) since being back in the UK so here is what's happened since last the last blog. We splashed out and got some new crockery and new saucepans, frying pan etc as we were fed up using the ones we had since getting Daisy which actually came with her! Daisy got a few more bits of work done for the MOT, including front brake pipes & hoses, caliper and the previously mentioned power steering issue was just a pipe which saved us a lot of money. Anyway she passed her MOT first time, with only a couple of advisories which will be sorted soon, so that's a relief and now means her MOT is a July date which suits us better as we will be in the UK around that time each year. So with the MOT done and the leak fixed, we took off up to the Peak District for an overnight stay at a pub campsite, just to get out of the city for a bit and also I had a couple of DIY jobs needing doing which required hook up. First up was a small
Can't believe we have been away exactly 6 months already, seems to me as if it has flown in! 😯 I just wanted to post this interactive map that I have been using to plot our route so far, it has a point for every place we have had overnight stay or a flight transfer. It's only when I look back over it, then does the time feel slower and I realise it was a long time ago that we swam in the beaches of Goa! Here is a link to some of the stats - Click here View Full Size Travel Map So what is the plan for the next couple of months and beyond? Well after our 8 weeks in Indonesia, we fly to Ho Chi Minh City and travel up Vietnam, then probably over into Laos and then into Cambodia. Then money permitting, we may go back into Thailand and do the northern part, although we did originally plan to be away a year, it's looking more likely it will be 10 months or so. x
So the first day has been at Vasco de Gama. We only picked this place because it was so close to the airport and when you land at 1am all you want is a nice bed for a couple of nights. The hotel is really nice, we have a double bed each, a balcony, plus a toilet/wet room complete with built in viewing window. We slept most of the day and then went for a wander into town in the afternoon. The roads are chaos and everyone was staring at the 2 crazy westerners walking along side the cows, goats, dogs and locals.... There are no tourists in this town and everyone wants to shake your hand and say 'Hi'. Sadly town at that time is mostly industrial car workshops, closed pharmacies, closed bars and hardly any people but on the way back to the hotel we found a dingy little bar with 2 beer fridges and some locals having a curry and pints. 2 kingfishers later and after they started closing all the shutters and doors with us inside, we thought it best to go back to the hotel.